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MOSUL, Iraq—Ali al-Baroodi is treating me to coffee in the souq. The old bazaar in Mosul, Iraq’s second largest city, dates to the Ottoman era, when the trade routes through town meant brisk business. On a Saturday afternoon Souq Bab al-Saray reeks of fish, raw meat, and spices. Shouting is the only way to rival the anvil blows and the hiss as forgers scrape steel in the winding passageways known as blacksmiths’ alley.
